The Bullers of Buchan

When summer is a distant memory, it's nice to look back at one of the places I love to visit when the weather is a wee bit warmer. The Bullers of Buchan is a hidden gem on Scotland's east coast about 27 miles north of Aberdeen. The name refers to both the tiny former fishing village and the "Pot", a collapsed sea cave just a few hundred yards from the houses.

If you are driving here from south of Aberdeen, bypass the city by taking the Aberdeen Western Periphery Route just north of Stonehaven and this should make getting here (and everywhere north of Aberdeen really) a lot less painful than driving through the city. Arriving at our destination we find a substantial car park and from there it is a short walk into the village where there are two footpaths. The first, keeping to the left, will take you north. The path to the right heads south.

So. What does the Bullers of Buchan have to offer and why should you make the effort to go? Well they say a picture is worth a thousand words:

The Bow of Pitwarlachie, south of the village

The views are pretty stunning and as it's a lesser known area (at the moment) you won't encounter quite the same number of tourists and day-trippers. Now you won't have the place to yourself but it's unlikely to be as busy as some of the better known spots where it can be a challenge to even find a parking space. A couple of things you should know: firstly, there are no tourist facilities here. No cafe's, no hotels and no public toilets. That said, Peterhead is only 9 miles north and Cruden Bay is roughly 3 miles to the south and both towns provide those facilities. Secondly, the footpaths are rough and unkempt in places and often go very close to the cliff edge with no fence so please be very careful and if you must take a dog, for heaven's sake keep it on a lead.

As well as the geography and spectacular rock formations, Bullers of Buchan is home to a good number of breeding seabirds including Kittiwakes, Razorbills, Guillemots and Puffins so for those with an interest (as I am) this is a place where you can easily spend a day exploring with binoculars and a nice long lens. The breeding season is late April to late July. The rest of the year these hardy little birds are way out at sea and the cliffs will be empty except for the odd Herring Gull.

The paths I discussed above extend quite some distance both north and south but my explorations, so far, have been restricted to the area around the village. Should you desire, however, there are much longer walks to be had. A good map will show the full extent of these coastal paths but briefly, the paths extend to Boddam (5 miles to the north) and to Cruden Bay (nearly 3 miles to the south).

On the northern path the first feature you will come to is the Pot, the nearly circular collapsed sea cave which is nearly certain to induce basophobia as you stare down into the hole. Continuing on a little way you will come to North Haven, a bay with a small boulder beach possessing a very nice prospect out onto some sea-stacks. There is a rough, steep path down to the bay and is a nice (if slightly uncomfortable) place to sit and enjoy a sandwich.

North Haven and the 'Temptin' seastack.

Back up the hill on the main path we continued north for another half-mile or so until we reached an old granite quarry near Whiteshin before re-tracing our steps back to the village and making our way onto the south path. We went as far as 'The Step of Arthur Fowlie' and here we got our first good sighting of Puffins in the sea below us and flying up to the cliffs nearby where there were numerous burrows.

Puffins

There is a nice grassy slope here where you can sit (assuming it's not been raining) and we happily spent several hours here with the place pretty much to ourselves on a July afternoon just watching the Puffins come and go a few yards away. We certainly didn't exert ourselves that day and that's what's wonderful about this particular place - it's the perfect spot to unwind, watch the seabirds and soak in the views in relative peace and just a short walk from the car park. Sometimes that's all you want on a hot summers day.

Dirty Birds

Doubtless, some other day we will take the longer hike's on the path's both north and south and explore further but just as it stands this place is logged as one of my favourite day-trips on Scotland's east coast.

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Balgavies Loch

Balgavies Loch (correctly pronounced "Bal-guys"), near Forfar, Scotland, is an ideal place to spend a couple of hours and is only a 15 minute drive from the A90. It is a wildlife reserve managed by the Scottish Wildlife Trust and, depending on the time of year, is home to a great variety of waterbirds and songbirds. If you're lucky, there are Red Squirrels to be found and this is the only place in Scotland where I have regularly seen Jays. The map below provides full directions from the A90 to one of the reserves two main car-parks. The walking route (approximately a mile and a half) is shown in red.

The loch was formed after the last ice age. As the last glaciers retreated they calved huge chunks of ice. These enormous blocks were gradually surrounded and partially buried by glacial outwash, which is simply gravel, mud and sand carried by water from the melting glacier. As the block of ice melted all that remained was a depression in the ground, called a kettle hole and it's this flooded kettle hole which 10,000 years later, is the site we see today.

There are two car-parks available, one is in a lay-by immediately off the road and is the easiest to access with a fine viewpoint over the loch but is only suitable for four cars. There is another, larger car park to the west of the first which is down a narrow track just off the main road. We usually park in the lay-by.

The path is clearly visible from either car park. As the route is circular you can walk either way around the loch but we always go clockwise so we head west from the car-park, through the gate and up a very short incline through the trees. The path is very well maintained and the whole route is a very easy walk for all ages, though the large number of kissing gates make this unsuitable for prams or wheelchairs.

At the top of the incline we come out of the trees and are presented with a view over the west of the loch. The path, zigzags gently down the hill into a small cope, through a gate and then skirts the south edge of the loch before rising gently until we're at the south west corner of the loch. This is where the hide/blind is located (marked with the camera icon on the map above).

The hide is not large and will only sit 4 people comfortably but there is room for 6 if you're willing to squeeze. Be warned: during the breeding season (May to July) this hide gets very busy as Ospreys breed on an island on the loch and this attracts a great many visitors. If you intend visiting during this time my recommendation is to be there as early as possible - around 7am to 8am and you may have the hide to yourself. However, in my opinion the hide /blind is not the best place to view the Ospreys from and I will come to that later in the article.

View from the hide/blind at Balgavies Loch

There are some feeders outside of the hide/blind and these often attract Goldfinches, Greenfinches, Blue tits, Great tits and Coal tits amongst others. With patience you may see Great-spotted woodpecker and Jays. Red Squirrels are always in the area though they are shy. There is a book inside the hide where visitors record their sightings so have a look there to see what's been recently spotted. If the feeders have not been topped up you may not see anything at all so like all things in nature please don't assume anything is guaranteed.

Various pictures taken from the hide/blind at Balgavies Loch (not taken on same day)

Back on the path we continue through the second car park onto a track which takes us through the woodland to the west of the loch. Keep your eyes peeled for woodpeckers and Red Squirrels here too. In short order the path will take a sharp right turn and this brings us to the north west of the loch. Here the path lies on the trackbed of the long extinct Arbroath-Forfar railway line which opened in 1838 but after years of decline finally closed in 1967. There are still some fascinating remnants of this era which add a slightly melancholy dimension to this part of the walk.

Path along the old railway line to the North of Balgavies Loch

Here the woodland is predominantly Silver Birch. I have seen Blackcaps in this area and on every visit I've spotted Treecreepers so a sedate, observant pace is recommended. As the path comes to the northern shores of the loch, looking south towards the islands in the loch will give you a much clearer and closer view of the Ospreys (if they are in the vicinity!) than anything visible from the hide/blind. You will be hard pushed to get a better view of Osprey anywhere else in Scotland than you can from there, however because you are looking to the south bear in mind the time of day as in late morning and afternoon the sun will be in your face so once again, I recommend a dawn visit.

Continue east down the path until you reach the remains of Auldbar Road railway station.

The remains of Auldbar Road railway station at Balgavies Loch.

Maybe it's just me but I find the remains of these old railways really quite sad. There was once a large wooden waiting room and footbridge here too but there is no longer any trace of these. I've stood on the overgrown platform imagining what this place would have been like during the heyday of steam and it's quite haunting.

Moving on, the path passes in front of the brick building then descends slightly back to the edge of the eastern side of the loch.

Looking North on the path at the Eastern side of Balgavies Loch

If there as been a great deal of rain then it has been known for this part of the path to flood, in which case you could either return the way you came or walk up onto the road at the old station and continue to the car park that way. Otherwise there are very pleasant views west across the loch. You must pass through another couple of kissing gates to get back to the southern side of the loch then the path meanders through woodland with a gentle gradient back to the car park. Though there are no toilets, cafe or visitor centre here, just a few minutes along the road (head towards Forfar) you will find Murton Farm Tearoom which is a pleasant place to stop, have a coffee and snack and avail yourself of the facilities (see website for opening times). God, I'm so middle aged...

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The Braemar 100

Photography wouldn't be much fun if I were just to be stuck in the house all the time. As it happens, most weekends I find myself on some small adventure or another and being lucky enough to live in one of the worlds most beautiful countries, I have some of the best scenery mother nature has to offer practically on my doorstep. This article is the first in a series of Scotland Travelogues, concentrating on the east of the country, coz that's where I live. The east doesn't get quite the same exposure as the Highlands and Islands but it has plenty to offer both day-trippers and tourists.

I just Googled the phrase "The Braemar 100" and got no hits so I'm coining it. It's the name I came up with for a circular drive through the Cairngorms National Park, starting and ending on the A90. And yes, I drew somewhat heavily on the "North Coast 500" for inspiration and apparently there's a "North East 250" too which was news to me. Anyway, this wee trip can be done quite easily in a day.

As the A90 is the main artery up the east coast of Scotland (starting at Perth and going all the way north to Fraserburgh) it seems eminently sensible to start the circuit from there as it's entirely likely anyone wanting to do the circuit would be approaching on this road.

We leave the A90 and begin the circuit on the B974 heading towards the village of Fettercairn. The road goes through the village and we continue on the B974 following the signs to Cairn O Mount. This road follows the route of an old Military Road built by William Caulfeild sometime after the Forty-Five Rebellion (1745 Jacobite Uprising). The road rises to 1493 feet as it approaches the mountain pass of Cairn O Mount. As you near the summit there is a small car park with room for 7 or 8 cars and if the weather permits it's always worth pulling over for 5 minutes to take in the views and wonder at the many cyclists who manage to ascend with pedal power alone. From here the vista extends over the Howe of the Mearns to the North Sea.

A few hundred yards up the hill, at the summit, there is a smaller lay-by. Parking here will give you access to the prehistoric cairn which crowns the summit. Many a traveller has added a rock to the cairn over the centuries but it is originally said to date from 2000 BC though how anybody knows this I will never know.

Cairn O Mount

Back on the road we start to descend. On the route down, on the hills to the left you will see a large granite tor protruding from the top of the most prominent hill. This is Clachnaben and is the destination of a popular walk which starts from a car park a little further down the road. That walk is an article for another time. For now we continue along the road until we reach the Glen Dye phonebox (a quaint Automobile Association phonebox from a bygone era, the prisitne condition of which continues to baffle me) where the road splits. Here we take the road to the left, which is signposted for Aboyne. The road continues to wind through forest until it comes to a T-Junction. Here we turn left onto the B976 which will start to run alongside the River Dee and take us past the towns of Aboyne and a little futher on, Ballater. There are plenty of cafe's in either of these towns to make a stop worthwhile.

About 2 miles beyond Aboyne we enter the Cairngorms National Park.

At Ballater we cross the river to drive into the town. Here you will start following the signs for Braemar and the A93. For those who are weak of bladder, there are public toilets at the Church Square car park - where parking is (as I write) free.

Back on the A93 we continue following the river towards Braemar. We are in the heart of Royal Deeside here and after 6 miles we'll pass Balmoral Castle where those who are of a mind (I most certainly am not) can pay the entry fee and tour the grounds (check opening times).

After Balmoral it's only another 6 or 7 miles to Braemar and the half-way mark. Just before we get to the town we pass Braemar Castle which is worth a quick stop to see. The outer walls are in a poor state of repair and it has an overall air of decrepitude. I would humbly opine that some of the entry fee should be put towards making some repairs, however the castle is in the hands of a public trust run by the local community and I understand they don't have the funds to deal with everything. The interior is in a much better condition and guided tours are available (check opening times).

Braemar Castle

The town of Braemar is not a large place by any stretch with a population of only around 800 but there is a sizeable car park in the town centre where again there are free public conveniences which is extremely, er, convenient. There are a good selection of gift shops and cafe's and it's worth exploring these and finding one to indulge in lunch. For those who like a spot of physical exertion there are a number of hillwalks around the town with good viewpoints overlooking the area. For the routes, maps can be purchased in the tourist information.

Braemar from the Cromlins viewpoint

Leaving Braemar we continue on the A93. We are no longer heading west at this stage but are now heading south, following the signs for our next stop which is the Glenshee Ski Centre. It's at this stage of the journey where the scenery starts to get quite dramatic as we leave the gently rolling countryside and farmland of the river valley for some serious mountains. There are plenty of places to stop on this part of the journey just to take in the views or to snap a few pictures. Incidentally, you are now be on the highest A-Road in the UK.

The Ski Centre is open all year. Obviously during the winter it's home to some of the best skiing conditions Scotland has to offer, but even the heart of the summer a ski lifts remains running to take you to the summit of The Cairnwell where you can enjoy panoramic views of the Cairngorms in a cafe (weather permitting). At the base cafe snacks and meals are also available.

Inside the base cafe at Glenshee Ski Centre

On the opposite side of the road from the base cafe, at the bottom of the hill there is a strange tubular sculpture which is certainly worth a moment of your time so once you have had your fill of coffee and cakes, take a wee walk to see what you make of it.

The Cairnwell Trio sculpture by William Pye

Back on the road drive another few miles south until you reach the car park at the Devil's Elbow (this was once a tremendously dangerous double hairpin bend before the road was rebuilt). Here you can see one of the Snow Roads installations: "Connecting Contours" from which to enjoy a very pleasing view down Glenshee and is yet another spot on this route where it's worth spending a few moments soaking up the scenery.

Glenshee

Then it's back in the car and continuing south past the Spittal of Glenshee until we come to the junction with the B951 where we start to head east again. The B951 is not a good road, it's very narrow, single track in many places so just take it easy here and enjoy the scenery. We have left the dramatic mountains behind us but on a sunny day the glens are extremely beautiful.

The B951 will take you to Kirriemuir and from there it's a short drive back onto the A90 but before we reach there we pass the road to the Backwater Reservoir which if you have the time is certainly worth the small detour.

Backwater Reservoir

In the early summer you'll hear cuckoos in this area, keep your eyes on the telegraph wires on the hillside for a sighting. If you follow the road across the dam you'll find two parking areas, the first is just a large lay-by but from here one can walk to the side of the reservoir for a leisurely stroll.

Cuckoo at Backwater Reservoir

As well as cuckoos, keep your eyes peeled for Osprey. A mile or so further along the road is another, slightly more organised car park with a picnic area and a better view over the reservoir. A great place to spend a few moments and enjoy the view before heading back to the A90 via Kirriemuir. Now although Kirriemuir has some famous associations with J.M. Barrie and Peter Pan, I was never a fan. However, I do like a bit of AC/DC and so a wee picture of Bon Scott who was born here was a fun diversion.

Bon Scott statue in Kirriemur

From here it's just a quick drive back to the A90 with The Braemar 100 completed.

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